The Textiles of India
The story of textiles in India is one of the oldest in the world. The earliest surviving Indian cotton threads date to around 4000 BC and dyed fabrics from the region are documented as far back as 2500 BC. India’s textiles were so central to its identity abroad that in ancient Greece and Babylon the very name ‘India’ was shorthand for ‘cotton’. India’s textiles are embedded in every aspect of its identity. Courtly splendour was proclaimed by magnificent fabrics and religious worship still finds expression through cloth. Global trade systems were formed on the export of Indian fabrics, and the hand-making of cloth continues to shape India today.
India’s rich natural resources for making and decorating textiles are unrivalled. The varied geographical regions and climates provide a huge range of plant fibres and natural dyes for the cultivators, weavers, dyers, printers and embroiderers of the subcontinent. Over centuries, most regions developed specialities based on local resources: the golden silks of Assam, the fine cottons of Bengal, the red dyes of south-east India. Textile makers use an astonishing range of skills to process raw materials and produce regionally distinctive dyes, weaves, prints and embroideries
Woven winds
The ancient Romans called India’s finest cottons ‘woven winds’ because of their airy lightness. The country’s cotton fabrics range from the sheerest muslin to robust pieces for everyday use, though fine cottons in particular were much sought after and are a key element of India’s supremacy in textiles.
Silk skeins
Different species of silkworm produce different silks. Silk is reeled or spun from the filaments of the silkworm’s cocoon and then woven. India’s ‘wild’ silks come from the larvae of the Antheraea genus of moths, which are native to eastern and central India. Mulberry silk was introduced to India from China about 2000 years ago. Different parts of silk cocoons are used to make different textures of silk yarn. Muga silk filaments are reeled from the cocoon resulting in a smooth and shiny fabric. Eri silk cannot be reeled so the fibres are spun like wool, giving the cloth a soft rather than silky surface.
Silver and gold
For lavish decoration, embroiderers use thin strips of silver or gilded silver (zari). These can be in the form of fine wire, or flattened and crimped, or wrapped around a silk core to make thread. Metal-wrapped thread can be woven on a loom to create luxurious fabrics or ribbon (gota) which can be stitched onto cloth.
Ikat sari
This sari is made using the single ikat technique where the dyer has coloured the crosswise weft threads with a pattern before weaving them with the plain lengthwise warp threads. In double ikat, both warp and weft are pre-dyed with a pattern. Skilled weaving then ensures that the two sets of patterned yarn match up precisely, revealing the complex design. Neeru Kumar designed this contemporary piece inspired by African colours and patterns. She collaborates with ikat weavers from Odisha to develop her range of saris.
Chintz floorspread
The extraordinary detail of the scene on this floorspread was achieved through a complex dyeing process called kalamkari, or chintz. The design was drawn by hand using a combination of mordants and liquid wax, before the whole cloth was submerged into red and blue (indigo) dye baths. Final details in yellow were painted onto the surface, layered over the reds and blues to make oranges and greens. The Coromandel Coast was renowned for its kalamkari textiles, and this piece is one of the finest surviving examples.
Varanasi brocade
The brocaded silks of Varanasi are highly prized. The design, materials and weave of this 19th-century sari fragment are all typical. To make it, the weaver attached a woven sample (naksha) of the pattern repeat to the warp threads on a draw-loom. He then followed the pattern as a template as he wove.
Kashmir shawl
Patterned Kashmir shawls like this one are woven using the twill-tapestry technique. Tapestry weave involves inserting coloured weft threads by hand for each element of the design. These tapestry-woven motifs are set against the diagonal twill background of the field of the shawl. The familiar paisley pattern is known in northern India as buta or boteh (‘flower’).
Jamdani sari
Most Bengali muslins were woven as plain undecorated lengths but some were also patterned in the jamdani technique. In this distinctive weave, extra weft threads are inserted by hand to create patterns (‘brocading’). Jamdani weavers are traditionally Muslim men, while the weavers of plain muslin are Hindus.
Stitch
India’s embroidery is almost as famed as its weaving and dyeing. Specific regional styles have developed over centuries, using a huge variety of stitches and materials. The area most associated with embroidery is north-west India, where it was produced by men in professional workshops and by women at home. In the 17th century, the finest Gujarati ari (hook) embroidery was highly prized by both the Mughal court and European consumers. Other outstanding local styles include the kantha embroidery of Bengal, phulkari from the Punjab, and chikan whitework embroidery from Lucknow.
India is a country of diversities. People from different castes and creeds live in the vast geographical region called India. Likewise, the textiles of India are also diversified. Different regions of India are famous for the production of different types of textiles. This article aims at discussing the main types of textiles produced in different areas of India.
The following are the main kinds of textile products of different places in India, which have been developed on the basis of the geographical location, climatic condition and the culture of the areas:
Muga silk
Muga silk is a beautiful kind of silk produced in Assam. It is mostly used in the production of sarees and ‘mekhla chaddars’ i.e. traditional sarees worn by Assamese brides that are white colored with a zari border. This material is highly durable and strong, though it looks delicate. This type of silk is produced from silkworms called Antheraea assama or muga silkworms. There are several thousands of families in Assam engaged in the production of Muga silk. The patterns traditionally used on Muga silk fabric are inspired by nature and the architecture in the area.
Manipuri cotton
Manipur is famous for the production of cotton fabric, popularly known as Manipuri cotton. Different types of tribal fabrics of Manipur are famous, such as ‘Moiraingphee’, ‘Lasingphee’ and ‘Phanek’. Most of the people in Manipur undertake weaving, which is passed on from one generation to another. Children are taught how to weave since a very young age. The motifs that are traditionally used in these fabrics are inspired by nature. Usually, natural colors are used in these textiles.
Khadi or Khaddar
Khadi, which is also known as Khaddar, is the pride of India. Khadi is cloth that is hand spun and hand woven in India. Cotton, silk or wool or a mixture of these materials is used for the production of Khadi. It is a cloth that can be worn both in summers and winters. The production of Khadi is largely undertaken in the villages of India. Khadi was popularized by Mahatma Gandhi originally as an attempt to create self employment opportunities and to abolish the use of foreign-made clothes. However, Khadi is largely being used in the production of designer apparel nowadays. It has no longer remained ‘the fabric of the poor man’. It is a fabric that is in demand not only in India, but also internationally.
Kashmiri woollen fabric
Woollen fabrics from Kashmir are famous all over India and even in international markets. Kashmir is famous particularly for its shawls. In addition to shawls, Kashmir also produces woollen fabric for draperies and dresses. The Pashmina shawl of Kashmir is world famous. This shawl is prepared from the wool of a wild mountain goat ‘Capra hircus’, which is popularly known as ‘Pashm’. Kashmiri woollen fabrics are one of the most beautiful textiles of India.
Kota Doria
Kota in Rajasthan is famous for the production of sarees, which are popularly known as ‘Kota sarees’ or ‘Kota Doria’. Kota sarees are woven using pure cotton, pure silk or a mixture of silk and cotton. The yarn used in these sarees is stiffened using starch to create stiffness in the sarees. These sarees have a pattern of checks woven into them. They are very delicate and suitable as base material for tie-and-dye, batik, block printing, patchwork, embroidery and other value addition processes.
Bandhni
Bandhni is a type of dyeing process undertaken largely in the states of Gujarat and Rajasthan. The tradition of Bandhni has been passed on from one generation to another in these states. It is a tie-and-dye process. Bandhni work is done on silk, cotton, satin or a combination of these materials. The fabric is tied and knots and then dyed to create a unique kind of design. Usually bright colors are used in Bandhni, and natural colors are used. Different kinds of designs are done in Bandhni.
Ikat
Ikat fabrics are popular all over India and even internationally. Ikat weaving is undertaken on satin cloth in South India. The world famous Patola saree of Gujarat is woven using this technique. Cotton sarees are woven in South India and Orissa using Ikat technique.
Banarasi sarees
The sarees made in the city of Benares are famous the world over. Silk in varied hues and golden thread are woven together to create the ultimate fantasy called Banarasi silk sarees. Nowadays silver thread is also being used in these sarees. Though the silk sarees made in Banaras are highly famous, the city also undertakes the production of other types of sarees such as organza and georgette. Traditionally, designs such as village scenes, flowers, clouds as well as designs from mosques and temples are used in these sarees.
Silk from South India
The silk produced in the southern part of India is famous all over the world. This silk is generally used for the production of sarees. The silk sarees produced in Andhra Pradesh, Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu and Mysore are world famous. Kanchipuram silk sarees are known for their exquisite looks and borders in various styles, such as ‘rudraksham’, ‘malli moggu’ and ‘gopuram’. Mysore is famous for its Mysore silk sarees that are lightweight, while Andhra Pradesh is known for its Pochampally sarees with beautiful geometrical designs.
Bengal muslin fabric
The cotton muslin fabric woven in Bengal is well known in both national and international markets. On account of its light weight and delicate looks, it is also referred to as ‘woven air’. This cloth allows for free movement of air and is suitable for wearing in warm climates.
Conclusion
These are some of the most famous and unique textiles from India. These textiles have been developed over time and their production has been passed on through generations. They reflect the culture of the people from the different regions in which they are produced.
Gadwal sari is a handcrafted woven sari style in Gadwal of Jogulamba Gadwal district in the Indian state of Telangana. It was registered as one of the geographical indications from Telangana by Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. They are most notable for the Zari on the saris. The sari consists of cotton body with silk pallu which is also given a new name as Sico saris. The weave is so light that the saree can be packed in a matchbox. The Brahmotsavas of Tirupati begin with the deity's idol being adorned with Gadwal Saree.
The Kanchipuram silk sari is a type of silk sari made in the Kanchipuram region in Tamil Nadu, India These saris are worn as bridal & special occasion saris by most women in Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Karnataka & Andhra Pradesh. It has been recognized as a Geographical indication by the Government of India in 2005–2006.
As of 2008, an estimated 5,000 families were involved in sari production. There are 25 silk and cotton yarn industries and 60 dyeing units in the region
Karnataka produces 9,000 metric tons of mulberry silk of a total of 20,000 metric tons of mulberry silk produced in the country, thus contributing to nearly 45% of the country's total mulberry silk. In Karnataka, silk is mainly produced in the Mysore district. It is a patent registered product under KSIC. KSIC is an owner of the Mysore Silk brand.
Mysore silk is produced by the Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation Limited (KSIC). The factory was founded in 1912 by Sri Nalvadi Krishnaraja Wodeyar, the Maharaja of Mysore.] Initially, the silk fabrics were manufactured & supplied to meet the requirements of the royal family and ornamental fabrics to their armed forces. After India gained independence, the Mysore State Sericulture Dept. took control of the silk weaving factory. In 1980, the factory was handed over to KSIC, a government of Karnataka industry. Today, products include silk sarees, shirts, kurta's, silk dhoti, and neckties. Mysore silk has also received geographical identification.